Sunday, January 18, 2009
Devil's Bridge
Although it's not the prettiest island in the Caribbean, tiny Antigua (108 sq. miles) is one of my favorites. The people exude the most genuinely warm spirits that I've ever witnessed and it's the birthplace of one of my favorite authors, Jamaica Kincaid. I spent my first hours in the capitol of St. John, scouring the streets for the library that Jamaica writes about so vividly in A Small Place. I found it in much the same cramped glory that she described almost a decade before but that wasn't one of the island's most memorable spots. That honor goes to Devil's Bridge.
Located on the northeast side of Antigua, covered with sloping hills and luxurious vegetation, you'll find the eerily popular attraction called Devil's Bridge. A natural limestone arch carved from Atlantic Ocean breakers looms up from the water. Blow holes and whipping waves add to the daunting effect of the place. Screaming over the bridge delivers not just excitement but a watery reward; the ocean responds to the kinetic energy and the waves rise in response. It's a splash that I'll never forget.
Labels: Antigua, Caribbean Travel, Devil's Bridge, tourist activities
Thursday, January 15, 2009
A Rosy Outlook
So it's 10 below zero in Chicago. My forehead feels immovable from being exposed to the skin-slapping wind. People always expect Chicagoans to be used to the weather but you never get used to brutal temperatures. You just adjust. Adjustment for me means focusing on my many tropical travels. I've gazed at tons of gorgeous beaches but the most unforgettable was Barbuda's pink sand shoreline.
Stretching for 10-miles non-stop, with nary a beach towel or umbrella stand in sight, Barbuda's beaches resemble true paradise. I keep two bottles of the blush-colored sand on my bookshelf. Today I've been staring at it hoping it will transport me to Barbuda or at least transmit a bit of the tiny island's heat. It hasn't worked. At least I have my memories. The most vivid of which is spending hours in postage-stamp-sized Codrington Airport. The waiting area and outside yard serves as Barbuda's socializing mecca. Women lounge around to discover who's flying in or leaving and kids play cricket with homemade bats. People pass out food and ask about your family. It's like the warmth of Barbuda's people is reflected in the rosy sands of its beaches.
Labels: Barbuda, Caribbean Travel, Codrington Airport, pink sand beaches, tourist activities
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Top Five Things To Do In Salvador, Bahia
Salvador, Bahia grabs the heart of any visitor and never releases it. Even when I was in Rio, American tourists urged me to visit Salvador if I wanted to see the real Brazil. It's true, Salvador boasts charm and visual treats that you can't find in any other place in the world. I think it's all that history crammed into one place. Salvador was Brazil's first capitol and it boasts so many historical monuments, places and people that you can literally visit one every five minutes. Great destinations always seem to attract a fair share of tourist traps, however. I thought the famed Mercado Modelo was filled with vendors hustling a load of mostly overpriced junk. The picturesque Pelourinho Square brims with addicts and pick pockets. So my favorite Salvador memories focus on slightly less touristy activities:
1. Eating Mocqueca at Iemanja Restaurant.
Acraraje might be Salavador's quintessential snack food but Mocqueca is the ultimate of Bahian cuisine. A smooth, creamy stew of fish, coconut milk, tomatoes and spices, I slurped this dish down almost every day. The sea goddess Iemanja is Salvador's favorite orixa and Iemanja Restaurant pays elegant homage with an interior filled with turquoise blue walls and sea shells. The waitresses wear long white gowns with blue accents and serene smiles. It was a soothing and magical experience.
2. Viewing the Eight Orixa Sculptures on Lake Torroro.
Rising out of the middle of a small lake, eight life-sized, fiber glass statues demonstrate Salvador's spiritual heritage. The Candomble religion plays an important part in everyday Brazilian life and this stunning park sculpture shows just one of the ways. The main Candomble deities or orixas are portrayed with their symbolic effects, like Xango with his ax and Oxun with her mirror. They loom in brilliant color, almost blending in with the splashing waves, trees and fishing boats.
3. Strolling through Salvador Museums.
I'm an art freak. I can't fully enjoy a trip unless I visit at least one gallery or museum. Salvador actually has scads of them clustered in Pelourino and beyond. I loved the City Museum, which displays contemporary Brazilian art and Case de Benin, which showcases artifacts from Benin, West Africa. The culture of Benin has influenced a lot of Bahian culture through art and spiritual customs.
4. Visiting the Prentice Art Gallery.
Nestled in a dilapidated old house, this gallery highlights the ceramic work of the Bahian artist Prentice. The walls are lined with hand painted tiles that depict Baianas, bloco drummers other aspects of Salvador life. I thought Prentice's art reflected a lot of Bahian charm, with whimsical brush strokes and sunny colors.
5. Viewing the Zumbi des Palmares Statue.
Zumbi was a famous freedom fighter who represents Black resistance to many Brazilians. An imposing bronze monument was erected to honor his historical significance in Pelourinho Square in May 2008. He led rebellions at the end of the 17th century and 300 years after his death, Brazilians pay tribute with a national day of remembrance on November 20.
Labels: Bahia culture, Brazil culture, Brazil Travel, Salvador, tourist activities, Zumbi Des Palmares
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